Here’s an espalier I had from them last year, which I’m really happy with. I wasn’t overly impressed with the 2 I have just bought but I don’t know enough about espaliers to know if I have anything to worry about or not. Here are pictures of the whole trees...
They’ll be ok Joe, they’re salvageable but certainly nowhere near the standard of the top photo.
As you suggested, pick the best placed branch - doesn’t have to be the largest, but placement and health/condition are important.
If there are any that could be used as fruiting spurs then cut them back to 3 or 4 buds. I’m thinking of where you’ve already got laterals on the tiered branches like the bottom right arm in the last photo.
Others remove entirely - They’ve left a lot of short stubs on the main trunk, if they have buds on it’s up to you whether you want to have fruiting spurs there - if not chop them off.
You can change the shape of any tree and over time as it matures and the branches get thicker they’ll even out and not look so wonky!
Is it the best placed for reaching the wire? It looks like it from this angle. If so, yes keep the ringed one.
Looks like if you prune it back to the downward facing bud that’s just ever so slightly below the level of the wire, that would be perfect place to start growing from to continue along the wire.
@Mr. Vine Eye do you know anything about pear trees? I was reading last night that they have a tendency to grow upwards but have quite soft wood that cracks if they become too full of fruit if their branches are too upright. So I’m wondering if I should prune off the long upright branches on my pear tree and keep the 4 more horizontal, smaller branches above?
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As you suggested, pick the best placed branch - doesn’t have to be the largest, but placement and health/condition are important.
If there are any that could be used as fruiting spurs then cut them back to 3 or 4 buds. I’m thinking of where you’ve already got laterals on the tiered branches like the bottom right arm in the last photo.
Others remove entirely - They’ve left a lot of short stubs on the main trunk, if they have buds on it’s up to you whether you want to have fruiting spurs there - if not chop them off.
You can change the shape of any tree and over time as it matures and the branches get thicker they’ll even out and not look so wonky!
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Looks like if you prune it back to the downward facing bud that’s just ever so slightly below the level of the wire, that would be perfect place to start growing from to continue along the wire.
If I’m seeing it right!