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Promote Sideshoots on an Espalier Apple Tree

andy_fulstowandy_fulstow Posts: 2
in Problem solving
Guys

I have a new (planted this year) small espaliered apple tree.

I would like to know how I can encourage side shoots above the current 2nd set about halfway from the top of the main growing stem.

I should mention that I am pretty much a novice in the garden though quite willing to get stuck in.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

AndyF.



Posts

  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    edited October 2020
    Hi Andy and welcome to the forum.
    One method is 'notching' where you remove a small bit (a notch) of bark just above a bud where you want the side shoot to appear.

    The growing tip of your tree sends growth inhibiting hormones down the stem to lower buds to slow their growth so that IT remains the highest part of the plant. It's called apical dominance.

    Using a clean sharp knife, removing a tiny bit of bark above the bud you want to shoot stops the growth inhibiting hormone reaching it and - in theory :) it will burst into life. 
    Only remove a little bit of bark just above the bud and not much wider than the bud, don't go all round the stem

    There's some info here
    https://growingfruit.org/t/advanced-tree-training-techniques-pruning-bending-notching-pinching-etc/17226

    and some clips here
    https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=notching+fruit+trees

    Depends on how 'stuck-in' you want to get :)
    Good luck
    See what others suggest

    PS- I should also say that being a young tree, a bud nay well break around where you want it next year anyway...

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    The other way is to cut the leader back to just above where you want a new set of "arms" to appear , forcing thr tree to grow at that point and using new growth to make them and a new leader. I think if you look at the second set of arms you can see where this was done before. I too have an espallier apple, but never had the guts to do it myself😊 so my arms are a little uneven and the main trunk a bit wobbly, but it made the size and number of rows I wanted without doing this.😁
  • andy_fulstowandy_fulstow Posts: 2
    Thanks v.much for the replies. 

    The tree has been 'trained' by cutting the leader previously.  I am somewhat nervous about this technique and the wife looks at me darkly when I mention it.  I actually went back to the nurseries and asked the main man about cutting the cambium above the buds and he said he didn't recommend as it opens the tree up to disease!!

    I will try notching.  In the spring??
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I have a three tier espaliered pear which I trained from a whip.  I cut back the leader each year as directed in the great John Cushnie’s book ‘How to Prune’. 
    It says 




    We are currently enjoying this years fruit from our handsome espaliered pear. 

    Hope that helps. 😊 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    It's not something I've needed to do Andy, but from what I've read, August is the month to 'notch'
    In the mean-time, your tree may produce side shoots before then.

    I have dwarf pyramid fruit trees and cordons.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
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