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What should I do with this rose bush

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  • LeeendeanLeeendean Posts: 122
    Hi there should I cut this right back to the old wood as it don’t seem to flower plus’s is covered in ants and aphids or should I remove the whole plant 
  • AnniDAnniD Posts: 12,585
    If you're generally happy with it, leave it in, but it is in need of some TLC.
    It's got blackspot,  first thing l would say is make sure you pick up all the leaves and don't put them in your compost bin (if you have one).
    Do you know which variety it is ?
  • LeeendeanLeeendean Posts: 122
    AnniD said:
    If you're generally happy with it, leave it in, but it is in need of some TLC.
    It's got blackspot,  first thing l would say is make sure you pick up all the leaves and don't put them in your compost bin (if you have one).
    Do you know which variety it is ?
    AnniD said:
    If you're generally happy with it, leave it in, but it is in need of some TLC.
    It's got blackspot,  first thing l would say is make sure you pick up all the leaves and don't put them in your compost bin (if you have one).
    Do you know which variety it is ?
    I am happy with it but it’s been here since we moved in. I’m not sure what type it is and ok I’ll pick of all the black spot leaves what should I do about the ants and aphids tho 
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    It’s definitely in need of some love! Roses are hungry and thirsty plants, so are hydrangeas and it looks as if you have a hydrangea planted fairly close on either side competing for water and soil nutrients. Better to move the hydras around 1m away from the base of rose. You can plant some less demanding perennials closer, but still leave a gap of around 30cm around the base.

    Now is not the time for major pruning, better to do that in late Winter/early Spring when it is dormant. Then you can cut it back by a third or even more. It looks like a climbing rose. To encourage it to flower more, after cutting back, install some tensioned wires along the fence, starting at 45cm above the ground then at 30cm intervals. When it starts to put out new, longer canes next year, gently bend them to near horizontal either side and tie in with soft string to encourage it to produce new shoots along the bent canes and flower lower down as well as the top. When it comes to time for pruning, there are some great videos online about rejuvenating climbing roses, or come back to us for more help.

    For now, clear up the fallen blackspotted leaves from the base as anniD says, give it a really good water, two full cans poured slowly around the base, letting it soak in, then give it a mulch of fresh compost. It has some new fresh growth there, so it is trying to grow but is struggling.

    Ants are a sign of dryness - they hate wet soil so keep the soil moist and they will move on. Aphids can be squished by hand or hosed off early in the morning before the sun is up - the ants are farming the aphids so both pests are interrelated.

    Also, dead heading the spent blooms encourages a rose to flower more. Cut off those old flower heads to the next set of 5 leaves or to where you see a new bud developing. The spent heads are swelling and forming hips (seed pods) so the rose thinks it’s mostly done it’s job for the year - cut them off and you fool it into flowering again!
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • AnniDAnniD Posts: 12,585
    The aphids are there because the plant is stressed, and the ants are there I'm guessing because they are "milking" the aphids. If it was me, I would cut it back by at least a half to reduce the height and generally tidy it up. Possibly give it a top dressing with some old compost if you have any. if you're not an organic gardener, you could spray the aphids but I suspect as the temperatures start to fall they will disappear anyway.
    There's a bit more info here
    https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-look-after-roses-in-autumn/

    also there are some real rose experts on here who may have more/better advice  :)

  • LeeendeanLeeendean Posts: 122
    Nollie said:
    It’s definitely in need of some love! Roses are hungry and thirsty plants, so are hydrangeas and it looks as if you have a hydrangea planted fairly close on either side competing for water and soil nutrients. Better to move the hydras around 1m away from the base of rose. You can plant some less demanding perennials closer, but still leave a gap of around 30cm around the base.

    Now is not the time for major pruning, better to do that in late Winter/early Spring when it is dormant. Then you can cut it back by a third or even more. It looks like a climbing rose. To encourage it to flower more, after cutting back, install some tensioned wires along the fence, starting at 45cm above the ground then at 30cm intervals. When it starts to put out new, longer canes next year, gently bend them to near horizontal either side and tie in with soft string to encourage it to produce new shoots along the bent canes and flower lower down as well as the top. When it comes to time for pruning, there are some great videos online about rejuvenating climbing roses, or come back to us for more help.

    For now, clear up the fallen blackspotted leaves from the base as anniD says, give it a really good water, two full cans poured slowly around the base, letting it soak in, then give it a mulch of fresh compost. It has some new fresh growth there, so it is trying to grow but is struggling.

    Ants are a sign of dryness - they hate wet soil so keep the soil moist and they will move on. Aphids can be squished by hand or hosed off early in the morning before the sun is up - the ants are farming the aphids so both pests are interrelated.

    Also, dead heading the spent blooms encourages a rose to flower more. Cut off those old flower heads to the next set of 5 leaves or to where you see a new bud developing. The spent heads are swelling and forming hips (seed pods) so the rose thinks it’s mostly done it’s job for the year - cut them off and you fool it into flowering again!
    Wow that’s some very useful information there thank you. Ok I’ll get on that today I’ll get rid of all the black spot leaves and give it a good feed I don’t have access to a garden hose at the minute will a spray bottle be ok to remove the aphids 
  • LeeendeanLeeendean Posts: 122
    AnniD said:
    The aphids are there because the plant is stressed, and the ants are there I'm guessing because they are "milking" the aphids. If it was me, I would cut it back by at least a half to reduce the height and generally tidy it up. Possibly give it a top dressing with some old compost if you have any. if you're not an organic gardener, you could spray the aphids but I suspect as the temperatures start to fall they will disappear anyway.
    There's a bit more info here
    https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/grow-plants/how-to-look-after-roses-in-autumn/

    also there are some real rose experts on here who may have more/better advice  :)

    Thank you Ann just had a look at the links there very helpful I will give it a good trim back after winter is over but for now I’ll get rid of the black spot and give it a good watering and feed and a spray to get the aphids off 
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    If you add a tiny squirt of washing up liquid to the spray bottle, that will also help as it as the WUL helps to suffocate them, but if you can get over the squeamish thing, gently squishing them off with your fingers works better.

    I wouldn’t feed it now when the plant is stressed, plus it’s a bit late in the season for that as it will naturally be winding down, just water well and put some compost around the base.

    After you have tackled the pruning next year, feed a general, balanced organic rose feed in spring then again in early and late summer. Always fertilise after a good watering, never on dry soil. Water really is the best cure for most things, roses always need a good, deep drink (not a quick sprinkle) about twice a week, more in a heatwave - far more than you think. Stingy with the watering means the rose will be stingy with the blooms, in a nutshell you get back precisely what you put in!

    Next year you will be rewarded with a fabulous, healthy, blooming rose 🌹 
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • LeeendeanLeeendean Posts: 122
    Nollie said:
    If you add a tiny squirt of washing up liquid to the spray bottle, that will also help as it as the WUL helps to suffocate them, but if you can get over the squeamish thing, gently squishing them off with your fingers works better.

    I wouldn’t feed it now when the plant is stressed, plus it’s a bit late in the season for that as it will naturally be winding down, just water well and put some compost around the base.

    After you have tackled the pruning next year, feed a general, balanced organic rose feed in spring then again in early and late summer. Always fertilise after a good watering, never on dry soil. Water really is the best cure for most things, roses always need a good, deep drink (not a quick sprinkle) about twice a week, more in a heatwave - far more than you think. Stingy with the watering means the rose will be stingy with the blooms, in a nutshell you get back precisely what you put in!

    Next year you will be rewarded with a fabulous, healthy, blooming rose 🌹 
    Thank you so much for all your help noille very much appreciated I’ll let you know how I get on 
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    You’re welcome. Look forward to seeing the photos next year!
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
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