Forum home Problem solving
This Forum will close on Wednesday 27 March, 2024. Please refer to the announcement on the Discussions page for further detail.

mildewy marigold advice

They were really lovely marigolds - from Sarah Raven, and earlier on, larger and some double ones - but now quite badly mildewed (having suffered a black aphid attack, which is less bad now, but ongoing.)

Can I do anything to revive them?
I am deadheading, but just pulled them out of their spot so need to have another go at them. 



Posts

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Mildew is usually down to poor air circulation combined with over or under watering, usually the latter, especially in pots.  Probably not fixable this late on for annuals like marigolds but give each pot a good dunking in a bucket of water till no more air bubbles appear and then, if you can, get the plants in the ground.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    Thanks.

    I have watered the pot every day, so I am pretty sure it's not that. I could have overwatered, but I have not saturated the soil each time.

    I have mildew all over the place, even in courgette plants watered from underneath (sitting on tanks) that are (or were - they have now been binned) not over crowded. Sweet peas have it. But hard not not have them rather tangled up...

    But, if I grow marigolds next year, fewer plants in the pot, maybe...
  • PosyPosy Posts: 3,601
    It has been a bumper year for mildew. It's really hard to control when the weather conditions suit it. Next year, try to saturate the compost, from below if possible,  but let it get dry on the surface between watering.
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    Thank you!
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    The best way to water a pot is to dunk it as indicated above.   If you give them too little in a daily dribble the compost develops dry pockets full of air and becomes very difficult to rehydrate so water just runs thru and doesn't benefit the plant.

    Planted in the ground, marigolds need a spacing of 6"/15cm between plants for dwarf varieties, 8 to 10"/20 to 25cm for French marigolds and a bit more for African so that would be 2 or 3 per pot max for the size you seem to have there but again I have to wonder why in pots?  If they're meant for display you should be using bigger, better pots but if you're growing them as a companion plant or for their petals for making ointments they'd be better in the ground.

    I have 2 courgettes and 3 squashes in a raised bed here and have just found some mildew on the leaves of the spaghetti squash so I have taken away a lot of excess growth and foliage to allow air and sun to get to the fruits and the remaining foliage and given them an extra drink.


    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    I really don't think my watering technique is bad tbh Not a daily dribble but not a daily drench either. Dunking would be difficult because of weight. Although it may not be a big enough pot, it's still a big heavy pot and I can't lift it up without hurting myself.

    I confess I probably did overcrowd them. It was in the height of lockdown and I didn't have enough pots. Impossible to get more at that point, other than black plastic and even that wasn't going to come quickly enough. The flowers had been on order for some time when they arrrived. I had to do something with them and certainly didn't want to throw any away.
    In pots because I have little ground space in my garden and most of what I have is in the shade and not great quality soil as recently cleared. Again, because of lockdown not possible to get manure in time at that point.
    My mildewed courgettes were very healthy. Big, strong plants, not over crowded, not against a wall, so plenty of air ciculation, watered using a tank and wick system, so no water on the leaves, brand new compost and clean pots, but succumbed, nevertheless.

    What do you mean by a better pot, Obelixx? This one is a 14 inch glazed ceramic pot. Is that the wrong type?
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Bigger
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    Just bigger then ;)

    Next time. Athough next year I doubt I will be able to do as much. Full time job, and the normal two hour a day stressful commute rather limits things.
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    In that case I suggest you concentrate what free time and budget you have now and all autumn to improving the soil in the garden where you've cleared it.   If time is really short then wait for rain and pile on inches of well-rotted manure, even if you only manage one or two bags of it at a time.   Take it one bite (or two) at a time.  The worms and other microorganisms will work it into the soil for you over the winter and then whatever you plant next year will have better soil and can have more space.

    If you're thinking of planting bulbs for spring, you can get daffs in from mid to late August, hyacinths and alliums form mid September, small bulbs as soon as possible after purchase so they don't dry out and tulips from mid November.   Don't worry about disturbing any manure mulch, just plant through it and leave a marker.

    Save your pots for planting "look at me" plants or useful herbs in decent compost next spring and summer rather than cramming in bedding plants.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    Just bigger then ;)

    Next time. Athough next year I doubt I will be able to do as much. Full time job, and the normal two hour a day stressful commute rather limits things.

    Re borders it involves moving established shrubs. It's not a small job. I am not even sure if I can do it on my own. This year I managed to clear two areas and dug manure in before lockdown. One is doing well, the other, which is shady less well. I have a lot of stuff to do in the garden now. I have, to date, been mainly a veg and soft fruit grower, and this year have added beans and carrots to the usual peas, courgettes, tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergines, peppers, inca berries, blueberries etc.... and have three small flower beds on the go. So I really need to focus on feeding and weeding. Yes I have too much for one person, but it keeps me happy when it's not overwhelming. I think the new flower border is definitely something to aim for for next year.
    I will be putting bulbs in pots at the appropriate time as usual. Not decided about the ground. I have some out the front which I have left in from spring. Will be planting new ones in pots and putting this year's (currently hanging up in string bags) somewhere where it doesn't matter too much if they don't do as well as they did this year.

    My aim is not a gorgeous manicured garden. That will never happen. I am not that sort of person. This is what I have managed this year over the last few months, and as far as it goes it had given me pleasure and a little satisfaction as not I have bothered with flowers, other than tulips and daffodils, before. (I am nto very good at taking pictures of flower beds...) I am still learning. I will always be learning. Tomatoes, in particular, afger 25 years of growing them, still throw me curve balls.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelemfirth/


Sign In or Register to comment.