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Yellow leaves on tomatoplants

super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
in Problem solving
Tomatocrisis!
My san marzano youngsters don't look to happy thees days(the Bogus Fructa is doing much better, maybe it's a stronger type?)...  The leaves are yellowing and have gotten dry spots.
Anyone got an idea of what's going on?
 This is only the second year I'm growing my own from seed. Last year they turned out beautiful,  the difference is the nutrience..
First year they only got potash and urin(!) , this year I have given them a npk feed special for tomato and cucumber.  Just found it to lack calcium!
Could this be the problem?
I really hope you can give me some input on this!

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Posts

  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    edited April 2020
    The underside of those leaf spots looks like the beginnings of a fungal leaf-spot disease, but that may have taken hold because the plants do look like they are suffering from chlorosis.  I never, ever feed tomatoes with anything until the first truss has set fruit as over-feeding can cause identical symptoms to nutrient deficiency.  You may be able to correct any calcium/magnesium/trace mineral deficiency with a general purpose foliar feed such as liquid seaweed.  I wouldn't risk adding any kind of feed to the roots at this stage.  They may well pick-up when planted into their final pots.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    We have just been talking about this on another thread.
    Its either over or under watering.  Light levels not enough.
    Cold. They need to be at around 10° or above. 
    Potassium deficiency.  Bury banana skins under the soil.  Might be a bit difficult in small pots.

  • super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
    purplerallim said:
    We have just been talking about this on another thread. 
    Do you have a link? 😀
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    I agree with Bob - no feed of any sort needed until the first truss sets. There will be enough nutrients in the compost as you pot them up.
    Seaweed extract is ok to use occasionally before this time.
    Also as purplerallim says they need to be kept ideally at a temperature of no less than 13c and lots of good sunlight

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
    Bob the gardener , thanks! So it may be possible to save them?! Theese are 7 weeks old. Its to late to start new ones (in Norway). Shoul I remove all damage leaves, repot them (deeper?) and give them liquide seaweed? They have been about 2 weeks in the pots they got now. I cant see anything wrong with the roots, but then again I'm new to this..
  • super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
    Hi Pete!
    Temperature is around 18 celsius, they are placed in a sunny window with extra light. But I understand I have been a little to eagre to see them grow! Because of the climachanges, my calendula has been flowering all winter, outside, maybe that has gotten me to think it's spring way to early! 
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    That's a good amount of root there, it just needs a deeper and bigger pot.😁 the other thread is tomato first timer.
  • super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
    Thanks purplerallim ! The difference from the pictures in that post and this is the spotted pattern on mine.. A bit worried about som kind of disease , bob the gardener wrote  "fungal leaf-spot disease" as a possible .
    I only hope I can save them!
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    The brown patches on top of the leaf could be water spots caused when water gets on the leaves then the sun burns them, that's why you should always water carefully and if possible from the bottom.
  • super-linesuper-line Posts: 16
    @Purplerallim, I have watered them from bottom, never from top. I thought for a while it could be dust from the vermiculite burning the leaves, but it don't add up, as I can't see any, and it doesn't explain the weird pattern of yellowing..
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