Forum home Tools and techniques
This Forum will close on Wednesday 27 March, 2024. Please refer to the announcement on the Discussions page for further detail.

Fork or rotavator

I'm just wondering if a garden fork can be used to prepare a lawn for reseeding. It's not a huge plot but it's quite compacted. I live in a terraced house so getting a rotavator in and out might not be viable so just wondering if I used a fork on it would it be as effective. Thanks.

«1

Posts

  • fidgetbonesfidgetbones Posts: 17,618
    Provide there are no perennial tap rooted weeds , such as dandelions, a rotavator will be fine. If you have tap rooted perennial weeds, fork them out first.
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    You can be as thorough with a fork as you can with a rotavator and it's kinder to organisms such as worms that you need for good soil health and you won't be making inadvertent cuttings of undesirable weeds by breaking their roots into small, viable pieces that will grow from uch root cuttings.

    It just takes more time and effort. 
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Are you planning to re-do the whole lawn or just the bare bits?  If the latter, you don't need a fork except for aerating which involves pushing the tines in as deeply as possible and wiggling back and forth to enlarge the holes thus created.  Do this every few inches and walking backwards so you don't compact the holes again. 

    When finished, pour on piles of dry, sharp sand (not builders' sand) and brush it into the holes, working forwards.  This will keep those holes open to allow better drainage and also get air to the grass roots.

    Once you've done that and have removed any obvious weeds and their roots, you can scarify the surface to remove any dead thatch and debris and allow light and air to the remaining grass shoots.  It will look dreadful for a week or two but will come good.

    For the bare patches, rake the soil surface to loosen it and level it then scatter your grass seed.  Tamp it down with the back of the rake and water in gently if you don't get rain within a few days.   Do not walk on it for several weeks and do not cut it shorter than 2 inches before winter sets in.  That will allow the grass to strengthen its roots and grow away well next spring.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • Thanks for all the advice. I think I have to start from scratch really. The lawn has been neglected for a long time so it’s full of bare patches and weeds . I think the fork is the way I’ll go. I’ve discovered old bits of paving slabs today under the soil so a rotavator is not the way I think
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    You're probably right.  I like the path - good shape and size.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • If you're not in a rush, you could use the fork to turn over the whole area, removing all roots as you go (any sods of turf can be buried upside-down and they'll rot away) and then leave it over winter so the frost will break down the clods of earth for you.   Adding a bit of manure after digging would be helpful in the long term.  If you then fork it over again in spring (again removing any new weeds and roots as you go), it will be much easier work than before and after the usual raking, levelling, treading cycles you should have a good surface on which to sow the seed.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    That sounds like a good plan and gets you loads of time to do it well.   Getting a bit late now for successful seed sowing and it's worth doing good soil prep as Bob advises.

    September and April are best because of temperatures and rainfall.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • thanks for the advice. Spring sowing might work better then and would give me a chance to work out what to do with the garden. Just to clarify Bob when you say "sods of turf can be buried upside-down and they'll rot away " that means any soil with grass growing on it will die off if I turn it over now?
  • shnhln said:
    thanks for the advice. Spring sowing might work better then and would give me a chance to work out what to do with the garden. Just to clarify Bob when you say "sods of turf can be buried upside-down and they'll rot away " that means any soil with grass growing on it will die off if I turn it over now?
    Yeah I'd fork the whole area, remove any debris, roots, stones etc. then dig in plenty of manure.

    Then I'd leave it over the winter to let the frost at it before seeding in the spring.

    In terms of what Bob said, take the top layer of turf off, turn it upside down and bury it under the soil. The grass will then die and rot back into the soil.

    Here's some good information about ground preparation:

    https://www.gardenseeker.com/lawn-care/new/how-to-prepare-the-ground-for-turf-and-grass-seed/

    Hope this helps!




  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Alternatively, you can stack the turves in a pile, grass to grass and soil to soil, in a hidden corner and they will brak down over winter and create lovely top soil you can use in and on any flower or shrub beds you create.  

    Doing that will leave the current grass area free for you to fork over and remove weed roots and stones and any other undesirable stuff as and when you can over the rest of autumn.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
Sign In or Register to comment.