I managed to strim off all the flowering heads at the back in a few hours. The ground is dry and dust was flying off. I had a plan to use weedkiller on the leaves afterwards which was scuppered by the Mrs. It would have been easy to strim off most of the plants at the back in a day I reckon and dig up the thistels. If I used a hoe instead I would imagine the roots would remain in places by about the same amount as using a strimmer due to the hard surface of the soil.
I'm thinking of using mesh and cardboard cover in some areas after strimming, and after weed killer if permitted.
I read there is new evidence that some glyphosate remains in the ground for longer than a few weeks. Wearing gloves when renovating and moving rocks would be normal but garden gloves are absorbant. I think glyphosate can penitrate them and rubber gloves worn underneath would be better, but very uncomfortable.
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
I am very late to this thread, you have had some good advice already. I have had to clear overgrown Allotments full of perennial weeds before so perhaps I can summarise. First safety gear: as well as previous advice PLEASE DO wear hearing protection at all times using machines especially strimmers as the engine is very close to your ears. I think you should cover a part of the ground (up to half). Landscape fabric is not that expensive. For the rest strim / weedkill as suggested, then take a small section at a time get a good fork & start to dig it over, remove all weed roots thoroughly. As sections are cleared sow a green manure crop, this will smother any new emerging weeds. In 2 -3 months it should be possible to have cleared all of it. Then you can then strim off & compost the top growth then rotavate the green manure crop in, this will help the soil structure. For that area you will need a good size machine with driven wheels, machines such as a Husqvarna TR430 or even bigger like a Camon C8 (I am not advertising just giving examples, see what the hire shop have). As others have said if you try to rotavate hard compacted soil the machine will buck & bounce and will miss bits & generally not do a good job. If you really can't face proper digging you can ease the soil (stick fork in & wiggle it about). This will give the machine something to bite into, but as others have said you risk spreading perennial weed roots if you don't dig them out first. It is a lot of work but will be worth it in the end. Hope this makes sense. Good luck.
Hi Allotment Boy, You have made good large areas of ground which has been totally overun with weeds. That is some experience alright and great advice thank you! The landscape company wanted £20,000 to do this job and said they had to remove and dispose of all top soil down to 6 inches. But now I have proof then that this will not necessary if I fail on this attempt. Happy days!
I'm getting quotes of £130 for 3m x 100m of heavy duty mesh which is enough to do the front. Well known 100gsm brand begining with Y.
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
If I ground covered the area at the front for now then and got on with the back area using green crop as described, how would you deal with the covered front before weeds start to grow through the fabric? Remove cover and renovate in autumn like the back?
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
My wife has allowed the herbiside to be used. Happy days.
I discovered there is just 4 to 8 inches of topsoil sitting on chalk today. It was a small holding so goodness knows how he managed to grow anything, but I know it included spuds. The large weeds start from under the chalk I found. Definately a weed killer job for them.
With so little depth to the soil maybe I need a smaller rotavator. But I imagine more topsoil will need to go on to increase the depth.
(To answer my daft question above I guess it can stay covered until I manage to get to the front). £130 isn't bad
When there is progress I will add.
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
The landscape fabric should last several years unless something like couch, bamboo or Japanese knot weed is involved (the all have sharp growths that will pierce most things). Keep it on as long as you can anything up to 2 years will kill off most things.
Thanks Allotment Boy the cost will be worth it.. I'm thinking a rotavator might pickup chalk from under the shallow soil. Hopefully the blades can be set to 4 inches so that it isn't made too alkaline.
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
Just an update. I've resorted to hiring a weed kill firm and the weeds have been killed. A few got missed but I can do those. Renovating a house and moving is so time consuming, and now the carpet man has made off with the money and the front door frame needs refitting. I don't do the work it's the meetings and communications that take up the time. To anyone reading a TIP - Don't ever renovate a house!!! It will clear you out and with the hassle it's not worth it.
I'll get the lower garden section covered up next week and start turning over the soil at the back if I can because it will be 2 weeks after applying the weedkiller. It is a huge task and the week kill firm might have to come back. But there is progress now.
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
I would just like to say you lot have been magnificant and shall be applying your tips from three pronged hoe through to hiring that big renovator later on. So once again thank you very much!
Kent near the white cliffs. Always learning and often the hard way.
Glad to hear you're making progress. I don't envy you the house - my limit is a bit of DIY and decorating, and calling in a plumber, sparky etc when needed (and that's enough of a hassle).
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
Posts
I'm thinking of using mesh and cardboard cover in some areas after strimming, and after weed killer if permitted.
I read there is new evidence that some glyphosate remains in the ground for longer than a few weeks. Wearing gloves when renovating and moving rocks would be normal but garden gloves are absorbant. I think glyphosate can penitrate them and rubber gloves worn underneath would be better, but very uncomfortable.
First safety gear: as well as previous advice PLEASE DO wear hearing protection at all times using machines especially strimmers as the engine is very close to your ears.
I think you should cover a part of the ground (up to half). Landscape fabric is not that expensive. For the rest strim / weedkill as suggested, then take a small section at a time get a good fork & start to dig it over, remove all weed roots thoroughly. As sections are cleared sow a green manure crop, this will smother any new emerging weeds. In 2 -3 months it should be possible to have cleared all of it. Then you can then strim off & compost the top growth then rotavate the green manure crop in, this will help the soil structure. For that area you will need a good size machine with driven wheels, machines such as a Husqvarna TR430 or even bigger like a Camon C8 (I am not advertising just giving examples, see what the hire shop have). As others have said if you try to rotavate hard compacted soil the machine will buck & bounce and will miss bits & generally not do a good job. If you really can't face proper digging you can ease the soil (stick fork in & wiggle it about). This will give the machine something to bite into, but as others have said you risk spreading perennial weed roots if you don't dig them out first. It is a lot of work but will be worth it in the end. Hope this makes sense.
Good luck.
I'm getting quotes of £130 for 3m x 100m of heavy duty mesh which is enough to do the front. Well known 100gsm brand begining with Y.
I discovered there is just 4 to 8 inches of topsoil sitting on chalk today. It was a small holding so goodness knows how he managed to grow anything, but I know it included spuds. The large weeds start from under the chalk I found. Definately a weed killer job for them.
With so little depth to the soil maybe I need a smaller rotavator. But I imagine more topsoil will need to go on to increase the depth.
(To answer my daft question above I guess it can stay covered until I manage to get to the front). £130 isn't bad
When there is progress I will add.
I'll get the lower garden section covered up next week and start turning over the soil at the back if I can because it will be 2 weeks after applying the weedkiller. It is a huge task and the week kill firm might have to come back. But there is progress now.
So once again thank you very much!