Green alkanet grows back from every last bit, so chopping it up with a rotavator is going to make it worse. However, it CAN be beaten. My back garden was covered in it, and now I have hardly any and what there is is easily removed. It has a hefty tap root that can, in my experience, go down about 18 inches. But if you fork down as far as you can and loosen the soil around each root as much as you can, you can (gently, gently, don't break it) ease the whole plant out with root. They are quite big plants with many fleshy leaves, so removing just a few makes a big difference to the overall appearance and gives you heart to continue. If the last bit breaks off, you'll get it back again, but the soil is already looser around it, you'll know what it is straight away, and getting it out the second (third, fourth...) time is easier and even more fulfilling.
Ditto with the dandelions, though removing them is slightly less rewarding. You can do it!
You could strim it all first so that you can see the bases of the plants better in order to get them out. This will also mean you get rid of as many seeds as possible before they spread themselves, as long as you don't leave the pile of strimmings out. But you will need to get the alkanet out, root and all - if anything, cutting it back seems to make it stronger.
'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
Thanks for the replies everyone. I've just been out there for an hour. I cut them all down and raked them up and bagged them... i had 2 big black bags full...
I then started the process of gently digging around the plant to losen all the soil and hopefully get the root out. One that I'm currently working on... has me lying on my stomach, digging away, and i'm up to my shoulder so far.....
"As for total obliteration? You have to treat mature alkanet as you would
any other thug plant. Digging is, as Rosalind complains, almost
impossible because of the deep, brittle root. So there is nothing for
it. Roundup - best used when the plants are in full growth in
mid-summer, and repeated before the end of the season if they dare show
their faces again."
Maybe I should consider that... the two roots I've dug (they snapped when i was past my elbow in soil) are long and brittle... one taking me to above my shoulder....
I'm thinking I should maybe just cut them back and manage it that way this year, do a 'no dig' growth site in another patch of the garden, and when they inevitably come back next year, i tackle them with Roundup or some such....
Personally, I would carry on with what you're doing. They will be back quite soon, and then you could treat the new growth with glyphosate if you wish. I have used it on some at the front of my house, as they come up in cracks in the paving where I can't dig down. But although they do die down they still come back, and I've never kept up with re-treatment in time. In the back garden, I dug them up - much more effective. A combination of the two is probably your best bet. But it's up to you.
'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
I did like the idea of digging them up, but I didn't know they'd be so deep down. I was at the limit of my shoulder so don't know how much further i could get down... without digging the entire garden up
I also have the issue that alot of them are by the wall that divides myself and my neighbour... if the roots go down and into her garden, I don't know how successful I would be at getting them out...
Digging out the bulk of the root as you have means the plant will use more energy from the remaining root when it re-grows. If you "hit it" with the weedkiller on this new growth this will be more effective than if you had just applied it from the start. As mentioned you may have to repeat this. I do not agree that the tarp idea will not work, but it would have to be down for up to 2 years to work, if any plant can't photosynthesise it can't make food & will die -eventually- the problem as highlighted is when they have a big tap root they have a big energy store so can recover if not blacked out completely for long enough. Maybe do part & part of the area as weedkillers are expensive if you have to do the whole area. Your choice really.
They are indeed. And abrasive - my daughter used to get rashes if she brushed past them. But there are definitely worse weeds (honest!). Do what you can.
'If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.'
Try not to get too disheartened. If the garden's been left for a year or two it will take time to get on top of it. Do a small patch at a time and keep cutting the alkanet down every time it grows, hopefully it will eventually give up. If it doesn't, as a last resort I would use weedkiller.
Digging out the bulk of the root as you have means the plant will use more energy from the remaining root when it re-grows. If you "hit it" with the weedkiller on this new growth this will be more effective than if you had just applied it from the start. As mentioned you may have to repeat this. I do not agree that the tarp idea will not work, but it would have to be down for up to 2 years to work, if any plant can't photosynthesise it can't make food & will die -eventually- the problem as highlighted is when they have a big tap root they have a big energy store so can recover if not blacked out completely for long enough. Maybe do part & part of the area as weedkillers are expensive if you have to do the whole area. Your choice really.
Hmmmm... the problem is, I don't know how long we plan to be here for, so whether 2 years is wise, I don't know. I appreciate the info though, it's definitely going to be kept in case we decide to stay here and I can look at this.
They are indeed. And abrasive - my daughter used to get rashes if she brushed past them. But there are definitely worse weeds (honest!). Do what you can.
Really? Being new to gardening, should I ask what they are? ha!
Try not to get too disheartened. If the garden's been left for a year or two it will take time to get on top of it. Do a small patch at a time and keep cutting the alkanet down every time it grows, hopefully it will eventually give up. If it doesn't, as a last resort I would use weedkiller.
I'm trying not too, but I was hoping I'd be able to do small sections at a time.. but as I got down to my shoulder and wasn't at the end of the root, I don't know how deep I'll have to go... and also, if there are a few together, I'm concerned i'll be breaking some roots digging one up... especially if they're all this deep down.
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Ditto with the dandelions, though removing them is slightly less rewarding. You can do it!
You could strim it all first so that you can see the bases of the plants better in order to get them out. This will also mean you get rid of as many seeds as possible before they spread themselves, as long as you don't leave the pile of strimmings out. But you will need to get the alkanet out, root and all - if anything, cutting it back seems to make it stronger.
I do not agree that the tarp idea will not work, but it would have to be down for up to 2 years to work, if any plant can't photosynthesise it can't make food & will die -eventually- the problem as highlighted is when they have a big tap root they have a big energy store so can recover if not blacked out completely for long enough.
Maybe do part & part of the area as weedkillers are expensive if you have to do the whole area. Your choice really.
Really? Being new to gardening, should I ask what they are? ha!
I'm trying not too, but I was hoping I'd be able to do small sections at a time.. but as I got down to my shoulder and wasn't at the end of the root, I don't know how deep I'll have to go... and also, if there are a few together, I'm concerned i'll be breaking some roots digging one up... especially if they're all this deep down.
Not sure why so many people are anti weedkiller, it is a tool. No one ever says “would rather not use a rake to rake”