Forum home Problem solving
This Forum will close on Wednesday 27 March, 2024. Please refer to the announcement on the Discussions page for further detail.

Poor results from sowing

ive had a really poor success rate from sowings this year & don't know what's happening
only 50% success from Sungold tomatoes, No cucumber Diva. Nicotiana very few emerged then collapsed, 1 didicus, no Brachysome. I've had some what I think is damping off.
I use General purpose compost - all on kitchen window ledge some in propogator- not heated.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong please - it's so frustrating 

Posts

  • Mr. Vine EyeMr. Vine Eye Posts: 2,394
    I've sown 20 odd different things this year and had good success from all, apart from Rosemary but that's notoriously difficult to grow from seed.

    I used Wilko Seed and cutting compost - which is basically general purpose mixed with sharp sand - I sieved it for seed trays and the top layer of larger pots (with the chunkier stuff in the bottom for filler) and used that sieved stuff for the covering on top of the seeds too.

    I started them on top of our TV unit, out of direct sunlight, with an upside down plastic fruit container or similar on top. Then when seedlings appeared took the covers off and moved to the kitchen windowsill - after thinning or pricking out (or when they were large enough, or I just needed more space!) I moved them into my mini greenhouse (pvc cover type)
    East Yorkshire
  • Mr. Vine EyeMr. Vine Eye Posts: 2,394
    Oh, also I only water them from the base - I fill a spare seed tray with water and sit the seedling containers/pots in there a few at a time until they soak up enough water - then return them to their place on the windowsill.
    East Yorkshire
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    I tend to use seed compost in modules.  I water in, but after that spray to water, keep covered using moisture from lid to re wet when checking growth. Kept warm in conservatory so light, but dont take lid off until at least four true leaves appear. Last year was bad this years been good. So it is a bit hit and miss. Not much help I know but gardening is like that.
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    edited April 2019
    You mentioned damping off and I think that's your problem, basically too much water and not enough (or fluctuating) heat levels.
    If you use a propagator with a lid, that would also encourage the various fungi etc that cause damping-off.

    Ps I sowed Nicotiana just over a week ago.
    I used MPC, sowed the seed then topped it with a light sprinkling of vermiculite then used a hand sprayer just enough to dampen the surface of the compost and vermiculite. The first seedlings appeared a couple of days ago.
    I do however use a heated propagator which makes it all much easier to control temps and humidity.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • John952John952 Posts: 21
    Thanks for all the replies
    yes I wondered if the temperature was fluctuating and going too cold overnight
    I think I may invest in a heated propogator for next year
  • Janie BJanie B Posts: 963
    edited April 2019
    This is my nicotiana, sown about 10 days ago in seed compost in a fruit pot, sitting on bench by the kitchen window. Didn’t realise they were so tiny! I presume I need to wait awhile before pricking them out...? 


    Lincolnshire
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    Once the true leaves appear it means that the seedling has a root system rather than just a single fragile root which if damaged means game over for that seedling.

    You could thin them out a bit so there's a bit more space between the seedlings.
    Or you could transplant those that have true leaves and leave the rest to grow on a bit - something I often do.
    They look as if they could do with a bit more light.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • Janie BJanie B Posts: 963
    Thanks, @Pete.8 . I've been wondering (since I started seed sowing this year), there must be an evolutionary reason why most plants seem to have "first leaves" before the "true leaves" appear...
    Lincolnshire
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    It wasn't long ago that I learned that too.
    I've just had a look at my little Sylvestris seedlings, they're about the size of a green pin-head at the moment.

    I grow them to use a bit of garden that would just get covered in weeds and it was only earlier this week I decided I'd pull up last year's dead stems that I leave on over winter (helps keep my dog off the garden), I noticed that of the 12 plants I had, all but a couple had started to re-sprout! sending up new leaves from the base of the plant - I never knew they would do that, but I do know that in that area there will be thousands of nicotiana seedlings appearing soon

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    The ordinary nicotiana are very quick to germinate, the Sylvestris types are very slow.
    I've pricked out the others, but will have to wait a month for the Sylvestris.

    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

Sign In or Register to comment.