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Is there any hope...

mattharding1983mattharding1983 Posts: 4
in Problem solving
Hi,

Last spring I have laid a rolled turf into my back garden. I have followed correct procedures ie. removing larger stones, adding quality top soil etc.). Hard work but I was extremely pleased to do it myself with help of friends. It all looked good, lawn grew into soil, almost as nice as grass on football pitch etc.

And then the disaster struck. We went away for about 2 weeks at the end of October or so. We have quite a lot trees outside our property so as you can imagine fallen leaves have covered all of lawn. After removing leaves I could see damage it has caused. Parts of lawn went brown, parts were dead already.

Question I have is if there is any way to recover? Is there a chance it will grow back on its own? Should I try to put seeds in between good grass? Or some treatment product..

I would be very grateful if someone would be able to help me out.

I will attach 3 pictures. One is last view of good lawn before we went away in Autumn and two others are from couple days ago to show how bad it is now.

Matt.


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Posts

  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    TBH I'm a bit puzzled how leaves on the lawn for two weeks in October would shade out the grass to that extent and that it hasn't filled back in any (mine grew loads in November/December after turning completely brown in the summer).  Is there a problem with drainage or heavy shade?
    I would try seeding over the whole lot (if it's shaded choose an appropriate seed mix).  Gently loosen the soil surface first (gentle raking with a spring-tine lawn rake would do it).  Maybe mix the seed in with some sandy top-dressing mix.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Looks like a drainage problem, it’s got wet, didn’t drain and the slurry on the top had baked into a crust, address the drainage, as Jenny says, rake gently and sprinkle seed over, maybe next month would be warmer. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • mattharding1983mattharding1983 Posts: 4
    Yes, I would say it is shaded because of given trees. But before we went I did not notice any bad changes to lawn. I specifically bought lawn better for shaded location (at least that is what seller was telling to me).

    Should I start seeding process asap do you think?


  • BorderlineBorderline Posts: 4,700
    Having grass is on-going maintenance. Your lawn will likely look more or less like this over winter if you just just mow the lawn and never rake, scarify, spike and re-seed.

    Looking at the last two photos, I think your soil is quite compacted and possibly heavy. If you have drainage issues or laid over clay-like soil, then the lawn may end up like that during the damp and cold months. Could be hard work in the beginning to get the top inch of soil into a better condition. Could take years.

    Wait till the weather warms up a bit and wait for a period where there has been no rain for over a week or two and lightly rake over the grass/soil, then spike it with a garden fork. Get some fine top soil or you can get pre packed lawn top soil finely sieved and work it into the whole area using a stiff broom. Then sow grass seed over the gaps. 

    This type of work should be done yearly, and scarifying (heavy raking to lift dead grass blocking the water getting into the soil) done in the autumn months. Hopefully, your lawn will green up and get less patchy.
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    I wouldn’t sow grass seed until end of March, or maybe even start of April, if you sow now and get a frost, the new shoots will die . You need to do something about the drainage though, or the same thing will happen next year. 

    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    Unless there's a really cold snap forecast where you are, yes.  It will be good if it can get a head start before the trees come into full leaf.
    If the drainage is poor you could spike the lawn first to help improve it (push in a garden fork vertically as deep as it will go, wiggle a bit, repeat every few inches - it's hard work so concentrate on the soggiest areas and anywhere that gets walked on a lot and has got compacted).

    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Spiking will help.  Make sure you work backwards so you don't stand on and compact the holes as you make them.  Brush in some sharp sand afterwards to keep the holes open and maintain improved aeration and drainage for the grass roots.   Do that bit by bit over the newt month.

    In April, when temperatures are generally warm enough, re-seed with a seed mix for shaded lawns.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    @Obelixx is right, I forgot about brushing in sand (I don't bother with it because my soil is sandy already and I just spike the bits that get compacted - under the washing line and the route to the compost bins)
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • mattharding1983mattharding1983 Posts: 4
    Thanks for all replies. I will definitely try to spike the lawn. 

    Just quick question regarding sharp sand idea. Do you actually fill whole of the hole after spiking or just brush it on the surface of lawn?
  • StevedaylillyStevedaylilly Posts: 1,102
    After you’ve spiked the lawn and it’s best with a hollow tine fork that will make perfect cylindrical holes, sweep the lawn with a combination of horticulture grit and sand.The grit will stop the holes collapsing and the sand will allow water and air to get to the sub structure of the lawn 
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