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'Rubbish' apple tree

GrassyKnollGrassyKnoll Posts: 95
in Fruit & veg
We have a pretty rubbish apple tree in our garden. It's about 18-20 feet high and we get hardly any apples from it. This year we had 12 apples. 11 of which grew on one branch .

The main trunk is about 4 feet high before it hits the branches. It's probably about 4 inches thick. 

I think I want to get rid of it and replant 2 new ones in its place .possibly arching over a gateway.

Would removal of a tree this size be hard to do?

Is it salvageable?
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  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    If you simply don't like or want the tree, then it shouldn't be difficult to take out.
    I'm with pansyface on this though. There are many reasons why it  may not be productive, so if you can address those, it will literally 'bear fruit'.
    If the trunk is only  four inches, and it's only four feet before the start of the branches, but it's 18 - 2 feet tall, it's probably not been getting pruned, or pruned correctly, so it would be a good idea to check out whether it's a spur fruiting or a tip fruiting variety [it sounds like the former ]  and then check out how to prune.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • GrassyKnollGrassyKnoll Posts: 95
    I've been in this house for only 3 years so id ont know hownold the tree is. 

    It's a rubbish apple producer .I have two girls that would love to eat apples but even the good ones aren't really that nice. We had one good yea but ended up trading the apples with a local cider producer (I was happy with that).

    I've done a lot of research the last couple of years and tried to pruen it correctly. Leaving the middle free and airy, pruning by a third etc. It's just not a great tree so I think starting again is maybe the best option.

  • GrassyKnollGrassyKnoll Posts: 95
    pansyface said:
    I’m having trouble forming a mental picture of the two new trees which would bend over a gate.

    I assume that this would be a working gate and that you would want to walk through it without stooping or doing a limbo dance.

    If that is the case, then you are going to need two trees that have been grafted onto quite a large rootstock type. Large rootstock types produce trees with trunks that are tall enough to make side branches that could be bent over a useable gate.

    Thus, you would end up with not one tree that you say is too big, but two trees that you would soon say were too big.....

    I've seen apple and pear trees trained on an archway and I think thetheight be a better way to go. Just a thought .
  • GrassyKnollGrassyKnoll Posts: 95
    I've seen apple and pear trees trained on an archway .just a thought on doing it that way as I'm putting a new gate in next to that tree anyway. 
  • steephillsteephill Posts: 2,841
    If it is a tip bearing variety then pruning stems by a third every year will remove the fruit. Leave it unpruned next year and see what happens.
  • GrassyKnollGrassyKnoll Posts: 95
    It's not a tip bearing. All the apples this year were along one branch.
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,384
    As pf says, it would need to be worth the extra time and effort and apple tree roots aren't too difficult to remove..  For the replacements, choose a variety you know you will like and then find a suitable pollinating partner for it as the second tree.  The Orangepippin website has excellent information available.  I picked 'Red Falstaff' as a an example as it I've found it to be a delicious and highly productive late variety:
    If you scroll down and click on 'Find pollination partners for..', the site will list lots of suitable varieties for the 2nd tree.  You don't have to buy from there of course but it is a great resource. :)
     

    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • StillLearningStillLearning Posts: 261
    is it true that you shouldn't plant / replace with another apple tree in the same place?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,384
    StillLearning said:
    is it true that you shouldn't plant / replace with another apple tree in the same place?
    That usually applies to sick or dead trees as it is likely that if the problem was a soil-borne disease, it would still be present.
    It is always a good idea to improve the soil wherever a tree has been removed as the area will likely be low in nutrients.  Adding well-rotted manure will help and I would also use mycorrhizal fungi (eg Rootgrow) on the new tree roots when planting in this scenario.

    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • WaysideWayside Posts: 845
    edited October 2018
    We have a couple of trees, and a neighbour has a large apple at the rear.  Hers has been fully in fruit for the last three years.  And this year not one apple.  We've had an average crop this year, and they've struggled with the drought, I could have helped them along a bit.  The sheltered tree and pear fruits have improved in the last week with water.

    Anyway it was windy at blossom time this year, so these things can sometimes be environmental/luck of the draw.  I like the look of your apple.  Could something like a shelter strip help?
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