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Various Questions - Roses / Clematis / Climbing Hydrangea / Rhododendron

daniel.wattsdaniel.watts Posts: 15
in Problem solving
All,

Hoping you can offer some advice on various challenges I have in my garden at the moment.....

Roses

I have a climbing rose, and also some potted roses; all David Austin.

Firstly, the climbing rose has shot up amazingly fast over the past 2 years, but it didn't flower much this year, and now it's looking a little top heavy.  Any advice?
Secondly, my potted roses also didn't flower very well this year, and I'm guessing it's because I'm not being disciplined enough on the pruning side of things?

Clematis

I have a clematis on a trellis, and it has also shot up brilliantly over the past 12 months.  Challenge now though is that it's outgrown the small trellis, and it's beginning to tie itself up in knots.  What do I do? Provide it with further trellis to grow against, or simply prune the excess growth so that it simply stays within the trellis space?

Climbing Hydrangea

I have planted three of these against the side of our garage to provide nice coverage during the spring-autumn months (it's a north facing wall).
Two of these are doing well, but the third (the one on the left) is struggling a little as I believe the slugs have attacked it, hence the pellets in the photo.  Do you think I need to do anything else to help these along?

Rhododendron

My rhododendron is not looking too pleased at all.  I've tried everything to revive it, but it remain very unwell.  I assume this may be because it's placed in an area that gets sunshine from around 12-6pm, and with the weather we've had I assume the plant (and the soil) have become too hot?




Posts

  • K67K67 Posts: 2,506
    Climbing roses flower best if the main stems are as horizontal as you can get them.
    You pot looks too small for the rose. Needs more feeding and watering in a pot.
    The clematis could just be too vigorous for the trellis do you know the name?
    Climbing hydrangea do take a while to get going. Are they hydrangea petiolaris? They are slow starters but do spread so need to be planted 8 to 10ft apart. 
    And finally you only need a few slug pellets but using organic methods are better for wildlife.
    , 
  • ButtercupdaysButtercupdays Posts: 4,546
    I echo what is said above.

    Your rose leaves do not look very healthy, they should be darker green and glossy, and at this time of year there should be new shoots. The shrub in front of it will be taking most of the nutrients, as well as shading the base of the plant. The rose needs much more feed and watering, but please read the instructions on the feed first.
    Flowers are borne of the side shoots. Takng branches down to as near horizontal as possible means you get lots of side shoots all going up, so lots of flowers :)

    As for the rose, so for the clematis.  You need to train  the new growth horizontally across the wall. You need a much wider trellis and you can zigzag long stems from side to side.
    It looks like it may be a C.montana, which is very vigorous. If so, you could cut it back after it has flowered in spring and start again. You will lose a year's flowers (it flowers on old growth) but the year after it will have nearly covered that wall!
    If it is not a montana then cut it back to  about 18 inches, to a good pair of buds, in spring, when it starts shooting , and you should get a good display next year.

    Hydranga petiolaris is very vigorous too. One would probably be enough for that wall, so just ditch the sickly one. They take a year or two to get their feet down, then race away.
     
    The Rhodo does look very poorly.
    They need acid soil, so if your soil is not acid it would probably be better in a pot, with ericaceous compost. You could try giving it some Sequestrene (or another feed with sequestered iron) which would help it get some of the nutrients it cannot get in alkaline soil.
    It might also be that the roots are congested - did you tease them out when you planted it? - or that they are damaged. The notches on the leaf edges are caused by adult vine weevils, so there could well be VW grubs eating the roots.
    It might also be that it did not get sufficient water during the hot summer. 4 hours a day should not be too much sun if it has enough moisture at the roots.

    Or it might be all three! You need to investigate and do your best to put things right, then keep your fingers crossed :)

    The instructions on the wildlife friendly slug pellets I use state a sparse scattering of pellets, only about 10 per plant. I have a large garden and I have had the same tub of slug pellets for several years, you must get through 1 a month!

    Good luck with your trouble shooting, the rest of your garden is looking good with some nice plants :)



  • MarlorenaMarlorena Posts: 8,705
    Regarding your climbing rose on the wall, I agree with Buttercupdays, that the large leafed shrub immediately to the front, should be removed... it's a reason why your rose is looking lanky and bare at the base... low growing perennials, annuals only in front, like the little grassy plant to the right... are fine..

    I might also try to bend the left cane downwards a bit, not too much it might break.. but you could leave it, as it's really not necessary at the moment.. the main thing is that shrub..

    What is the name of your climbing rose please?... is it 'Teasing Georgia' by any chance?..
    East Anglia, England
  • Nanny BeachNanny Beach Posts: 8,719
    I had several rhodos go like this this year, some in pots erric compost, some in the ground, soil is neutral we enherited several in the ground that are doing fine, it was before the hot summer and one was planted in a shady woodland area, vine weval was suggested to me, because of the notches on the leaves, I didnt find any or grubs in the pots, I removed and placed them all in our garden waste bin.
  • Nanny BeachNanny Beach Posts: 8,719
    I had roses in pots several years, fed, manured,watered, pruned, after a few years they didnt look so good, all in the ground this year and doing much better
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Agree with all the above.  Feeding and especially watering are key to plant success and slug pellets should be used sparingly and not be so visible they're ground cover.

    Clematis behave difefrently according to which one it is and yes, they like to spread so get a much bigger panel or 3 of trellis or some training wires tensioned horizontally across vine eyes screwed to the wall as you have for the rose.   You could maybe recycle that V shaped bit for hanging some tea lights.  About all it's good for.

    You have the makings of some good plants there but they do need some TLC.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • daniel.wattsdaniel.watts Posts: 15
    Thanks all, much appreciated.
  • ZeroZero1ZeroZero1 Posts: 577
    Like Nanny beach I also had rhodo troubles. I think that if you plant a rhodo in acid soil it will do well for a season then as the roots protrude it will slowly go sick - spotty pale leaves that go crispy. An alternative explanation would be too much sun - this year we have had a lot. Rhodos are forest plants and do well in the shade. Over feeding can also be a problem - if you do feed use the right ph feed and follow instructions. 
    These aer my speculations, I don't mean to say I am an expert

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