I admit the picture isn't good, too distant for a good view of the type of acer. The branches are dark almost black but not quite - unlike the more common acers that we already have. The pot was just a means of transportation, the acer has now been planted directly into soil in an area with part shade, part sun. We plan to prune in the winter, just a gentle prune to give it a more even, less top shape, in fact I may prune part this year and again next winter rather than all at once.
I have 6 acers in pots so when I move house they come with me. Had to have a separate transit van for all the plants last time I moved! Put mine in an Ericaceous and John Inness 3 mix. Definitely out of wind tunnel and mine are mostly in shade for half the day . Light green leaf variety most prone to scorch so nestled under an old apple tree. Use rainwater whenever posts and mine get regular comfrey or liquid seaweed feed during summer. Tops of pots are mulched with gravel too.From 6 inch starter acers they are now between one and six foot high. Have had to on occasions prune both branches and roots. With tlc they have recovered well. Good luck
I have 6 acers in pots so when I move house they come with me. Had to have a separate transit van for all the plants last time I moved! Put mine in an Ericaceous and John Inness 3 mix. Definitely out of wind tunnel and mine are mostly in shade for half the day . Light green leaf variety most prone to scorch so nestled under an old apple tree. Use rainwater whenever posts and mine get regular comfrey or liquid seaweed feed during summer. Tops of pots are mulched with gravel too.From 6 inch starter acers they are now between one and six foot high. Have had to on occasions prune both branches and roots. With tlc they have recovered well. Good luck
Yep, a separate transit just for the plants will be me in a couple of weeks
I admit the picture isn't good, too distant for a good view of the type of acer. The branches are dark almost black but not quite - unlike the more common acers that we already have. The pot was just a means of transportation, the acer has now been planted directly into soil in an area with part shade, part sun. We plan to prune in the winter, just a gentle prune to give it a more even, less top shape, in fact I may prune part this year and again next winter rather than all at once.
Ah, I see! They like to not dry out, but likewise the soil they're in needs to be free draining. tessa (above) is absolutely right about everything re wind tunnels, seaweed feeds, scorch, mulching. Same applies to ground planted acers. When it is very dry, as was this summer, best to water them with rainwater from a butt, rather than a hose, if that's possible. I don't think that once it's dormant, cutting off the dry tops in one go will matter, to be honest. Above all, give it time to recover - they're approaching dormancy now anyway, so you won't see much before winter, when the new leaf buds will be forming.
G D , just seen your post about Acers , I have some in pots which I have moved to different parts of the garden to avoid the winds , I think I have finally got it right Mine are quiet small Best of luck with yours
Thank you for all your helpful comments, we hope we have the acer placed in the best possible position now. We don't know the type - no label as the plant was secondhand but here is a picture or two that may give you some clues. The bark is lmost black/purple, not at all like the ones we already have which are more green. The leaves here are almost all off or withering. Do hope it takes in this sheltered position.
Thank you for all your helpful comments, we hope we have the acer placed in the best possible position now. We don't know the type - no label as the plant was secondhand but here is a picture or two that may give you some clues. The bark is lmost black/purple, not at all like the ones we already have which are more green. The leaves here are almost all off or withering. Do hope it takes in this sheltered position.
That's an interesting colour of bark. Could be naturally so, or could be recently dead cambium - due to conditions the tree has not liked or possibly even pathogenic (like a canker or verticillium disease - branches suddenly die and desiccated leaves hang on). Both are soil borne, as far as I know and verticillium is naturally always in soil, usually only affecting weakened trees through a cut in their bark somewhere. When your tree is dormant, try cutting a twig that is black and have a look inside - if here are dark brown or black stains in the sap wood, then it's Likely to be diseased. With cankers, you may see some small, orange fruiting bodies stuck to the black parts of the bark in autumn time too (possibly what I am seeing on your close up bark pic) and you may also see girdling of affected branches (I can see some girdling around the branches where they join the trunk, in your close up pic).
With any disease, it's usually best to clean your pruning equipment really well, to avoid passing it on to other plants.
But then again, your tree may be fine too!
I'd prune it in November first, having given it several weeks to establish itself (the roots will settle in, as soil is still warm, even if the tree is heading towards dormancy).
If you see any danger signs of above diseases, then at least you'll know sooner rather than later.
I think my Acer/Maple are going to be relocated has mine are not liking the wind, noticed the change already within days of having slight breeze, looks like I need to move and quick. My dwarf seems to do extremely well and he gets a breeze and never gets that scorch look abit bizarre really.
I think my Acer/Maple are going to be relocated has mine are not liking the wind, noticed the change already within days of having slight breeze, looks like I need to move and quick. My dwarf seems to do extremely well and he gets a breeze and never gets that scorch look abit bizarre really.
I'd probably wait until it's dormant Puzzle, rather than moving it right now.
Wherabouts are you in the country? Here in London mine is already reddening as we approach autumn. Yours is lovely and looks like it is also doing the same.
With the intensely hot summer this year, everything in my garden seems to have advanced faster than usual, including the acer.
Worth also putting in a tree support, particularly if it's a tree less than 5 years old. Helps enormously against rocking, which acers hate.
Thank you for your words of wisdom dappledshade, I will check it out in November as you have suggested. I would hate to have planted a diseased tree which may bring the infection into our garden. I thought this was a different type of acer, and like you we are not totally sure of it's condition. We will keep watering and keep an eye on the plant, hopefully I won't have to come back with a "problem".
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Put mine in an Ericaceous and John Inness 3 mix. Definitely out of wind tunnel and mine are mostly in shade for half the day . Light green leaf variety most prone to scorch so nestled under an old apple tree. Use rainwater whenever posts and mine get regular comfrey or liquid seaweed feed during summer. Tops of pots are mulched with gravel too.From 6 inch starter acers they are now between one and six foot high. Have had to on occasions prune both branches and roots. With tlc they have recovered well. Good luck
They like to not dry out, but likewise the soil they're in needs to be free draining.
tessa (above) is absolutely right about everything re wind tunnels, seaweed feeds, scorch, mulching.
Same applies to ground planted acers.
When it is very dry, as was this summer, best to water them with rainwater from a butt, rather than a hose, if that's possible.
I don't think that once it's dormant, cutting off the dry tops in one go will matter, to be honest.
Above all, give it time to recover - they're approaching dormancy now anyway, so you won't see much before winter, when the new leaf buds will be forming.
Mine are quiet small
Best of luck with yours
Could be naturally so, or could be recently dead cambium - due to conditions the tree has not liked or possibly even pathogenic (like a canker or verticillium disease - branches suddenly die and desiccated leaves hang on).
Both are soil borne, as far as I know and verticillium is naturally always in soil, usually only affecting weakened trees through a cut in their bark somewhere.
When your tree is dormant, try cutting a twig that is black and have a look inside - if here are dark brown or black stains in the sap wood, then it's Likely to be diseased.
With cankers, you may see some small, orange fruiting bodies stuck to the black parts of the bark in autumn time too (possibly what I am seeing on your close up bark pic) and you may also see girdling of affected branches (I can see some girdling around the branches where they join the trunk, in your close up pic).
With any disease, it's usually best to clean your pruning equipment really well, to avoid passing it on to other plants.
But then again, your tree may be fine too!
I'd prune it in November first, having given it several weeks to establish itself (the roots will settle in, as soil is still warm, even if the tree is heading towards dormancy).
If you see any danger signs of above diseases, then at least you'll know sooner rather than later.
My dwarf seems to do extremely well and he gets a breeze and never gets that scorch look abit bizarre really.
Wherabouts are you in the country? Here in London mine is already reddening as we approach autumn. Yours is lovely and looks like it is also doing the same.
With the intensely hot summer this year, everything in my garden seems to have advanced faster than usual, including the acer.
Worth also putting in a tree support, particularly if it's a tree less than 5 years old. Helps enormously against rocking, which acers hate.