Planting a columnar cherry tree

Posts

• Buttercupdays Posts: 4,546

  August 2018 edited August 2018

  My Ama-no-gawa is planted all of 4ft from the back wall and has caused no problems in over 30 years.
  

  However the the house has been here for over 300 years and doesn't have modern foundations, or walls. Any earth movement I think it just shrugs off, and hunkers down again, with maybe a bit of a crack showing in the plaster, which is less flexible!

  
  

  Autumn is the best time to plant if you can, or very early spring, after the worst of the cold, but before growth starts.
  

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• Silver surfer Posts: 4,719

  August 2018

  See recommendations for space/trees/ buildings.
  
  From Link below... 
  
  https://www.localsurveyorsdirect.co.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/treesdraft060227.pdf
  

   

  Species	Normal Mature Height (M)	Safe Distance (M)
  Apple / Pear	12	10
  Ash	23	21
  Beech	20	15
  Birch	14	10
  Cypress	25	20
  Cherry	17	11
  Damson	12	11
  Elm	25	30
  Hawthorn	10	12
  Holly	14	6
  Horse Chestnut	20	23
  Laburnum	12	9
  Laurel	8	6
  Magnolia	9	5
  Maple	21	20
  Oak	24	30
  Pine	29	8
  Plane	30	22
  Plum	12	11
  Poplar	28	35
  Sycamore	24	17
  Spruce	18	7
  Walnut	18	14
  White Beam / Rowan	12	11
  Willow	24	40
  Yew	12	5

  Perthshire. SCOTLAND .

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• UpNorth Posts: 376

  August 2018

  Jayne Johnson said:

  How far from the house should it be planted?
  
  What is the best time of year to plant one?
  

  
  how far? the recommended distance is huge overkill, i'd be very comfortable at 3m from foundations, 4m would be better.   I have experience of dealing with subsidence problems in my work over the years and i also had a subsidence problem myself once.   if you're not in London (almost all on clay), don't have shallow foundation bay window, and you reckon you're not within a clay belt and drains don't run right there under the planting area...then frankly just plant the Cherry.  don't plant a Willow that close, that would be dumb.   Cherry's are very very slow to grow anyway, plus you could prune in 30 years if it was causing too much shade.  
  
  as for time of year....right now is great.  or within the month is ideal, it means the ground is still warm enough for a few months so that roots keep growing and get established.  if not, wait until spring has sprung.

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• Lizzie27 Posts: 12,494

  August 2018

  Those distances look really far too much - I wonder what they are based on. Pressure from insurance companies perhaps?  

  North East Somerset - Clay soil over limestone

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