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Pruning treeish things

WaysideWayside Posts: 845
edited August 2018 in Problem solving
Any pointers for pruning larger sized shrubs/trees?  I've a buddleia tree I hacked it back previously to about head height, and it did quite well.  Another I took to the ground, and I haven't been that impressed with the shape of regrowth.  Starts off good and tight, then falls over and gets in the way.  Not quite sure what shape I should be going for.

Posts

  • K67K67 Posts: 2,506
    They seem to do their own thing, never been able to get a shape but at least you can cut it down and start again the following year. I prune to about 18 inches off the ground and as it grows take out branches in the wrong place. Some varieties are more spreading than others 
  • KT53KT53 Posts: 9,016
    I'm firmly in the 'hack it down' school with buddleia.  They are tough and will respond well to that treatment.  If you only cut back to head height the new growth and flowers will mainly be above that level and it will become very leggy.
  • plant pauperplant pauper Posts: 6,904
    Mine got strimmed (accidentally) and quite liked it.  :D
    I'm looking at my 'getting out of hand again' philadelphus and wondering....🤨
  • WaysideWayside Posts: 845
    edited August 2018
    I've a mock orange too that has a got a bit leggy and high.  And wondered the same, whether it's worth hacking it hard?

    I think my main quandary comes with large buddleia specimens and with pruning in general as to how to hide big cuts.

    Our tree sized one with three main branches that then forked, I took down to the first forking, and that was satisfactory, but I wanted to make the shape more compact.  So then tried to go as low as possible.  And it still doesn't feel quite right.  I think what I should be aiming for is some good solid inch sized stems at the base to use as a scaffolding for the future.  But that's just a hunch.

    I do very much like them as trees.  But space is a consideration.  And when they are tight shrubs they are quite charming too.   I'm just not sure if there is much in the way of middle ground.  It's trying to avoid them flopping down into paths and in your face.  (Our garden is quite narrow, about 14ft.)
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    Don't hack Mock Orange (Philadelphus) back hard ... remove the the oldest one third of the branches from the base ... that way you'll rejuvenate the shrub while maintaining its natural elegant shape.

    As for buddliea ... I cut mine back by half in November to help prevent root damage from windrock ... and then when the buds begin to break in the spring I cut every stem/branch/cane down hard to no more than my knee height, often lower ... that results in a beautiful 'fountain' shape that looks wonderful when in full bloom.  

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Joyce21Joyce21 Posts: 15,489
    I do the same as Dove and then do the "Chelsea chop".
    SW Scotland
  • Ladybird4Ladybird4 Posts: 37,906
    I do similar. When dead heading I also keep the shape of the shrub. I leave my serious pruning until Spring when I remove any growth crossing into the middle of the bush and crossing other branches. I remove some of the old branches right back to base and cut all remaining branches down to about 45cm and always to an outward facing bud - as with roses.
    Cacoethes: An irresistible urge to do something inadvisable
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Same as most people, but I cut the buddlia and the hydrangeas back in April, colder, wet and windy here and frosts up to May. 
    Buddlia gets sawn back as far as I can get it. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • IamweedyIamweedy Posts: 1,364
    I was thinking of disposing of my Buddleia Deep Pink but it is is providing a lovely subtle perfume in the garden. It is redeemed.



    'You must have some bread with it me duck!'

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