I've known rats gnaw through chicken wire quite quickly ... I'd use sheets of expanded metal lath from builders' merchants ... it'll take the rats longer to chew through that
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Im a belts and braces kind of person, so when I moved my 10 x 8 shed I prepared a base by digging down about 10" until I hit compacted earth, kept spreading 2" thick layers of hardcore (crusher run) and whacked each layer down with a hired whacker plate before spreading the next layer, finally topped with 2" layer of sand that I also whacked, then screeded it, and then laid paving stones so that they were higher than the surrounding ground. I then laid treated timber posts on the surface to stand the shed on. Concrete posts would be better.
Ideally put some damp proof course or shed felt over the wooden posts to stop any damp creeping up into the shed floor.
Heres the shed having been dismantled from its previous concrete base, and reassembled on top of the new base.
My greenhouse now stands where the shed used to be..
Personally given the choice I'd put my shed on piers. Strong timber however isn't cheap. I think that's why people fall back to resting on concrete. But a crushed stone pad, sounds sensible, cheapish and at least reusable.
Posts
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in.
Just done the very thing you mention with an Acer / Japanese Maple.
Ideally put some damp proof course or shed felt over the wooden posts to stop any damp creeping up into the shed floor.
Heres the shed having been dismantled from its previous concrete base, and reassembled on top of the new base.
My greenhouse now stands where the shed used to be..