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Wisteria knowledge and help needed!!

aimiesweet.29aimiesweet.29 Posts: 5
in Plants

Hi Everyone!

Im new here and wondered if anyone would be kind enough to share some wisdom and advice on wisteria!?

we bought a wisteria 2 years ago now. Planted in its final position with the idea of having it run along our fence to create a gorgeous wall of blooms! First year after planting we had good progress with growth up the structure and we actually had flowers! Pruned as shown in YouTube vid in the late summer and the following jan but now this year we’ve had no flowers and loads of green growth! So my first question is, is this normal for a young plant?

secondly, now there is more of a substantial plant I am a little at a loss as to where and how much I actually prune this year! As you can see I have side shoots stretching out across wires onto some trellis.. do I cut these all the way back down to 5/6 leaves? It just seems like a lot to me especially as one of those shoots goes all the back to the main leader branch. Also, my brown branches don’t seem to have grown.. but I have these green shoots coming from them that are thickening at a fast pace so was wondering if they eventually turn to the woody structure associated with wisteria?

One final thing, when can I remove the cane that is supporting the main branch?? It has twined itself around it in a spiral at the bottom so I am a little anxious as to wether to remove it!

I’d appreciate any input you all have!

many thanks!!
Aimie






Posts

  • Hostafan1Hostafan1 Posts: 34,889
    IMHO I'd forego flowers on a young plant and use the new long shoots to form a good solid framework  to produce flowers in  years to come.
    Devon.
  • aimiesweet.29aimiesweet.29 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice Hostafan1! Originally I wasn’t expecting flowers for a few years yet but as we had them last year I was just curious as to wether they should have come again this year. I’d done a little reading and flowering seems to be an overly common question! Any advice on how far back I cut those long new shoots come pruning time? As they are very long... especially one of them.. as I said in original post it goes all the way back to the main leader branch.. would I still cut it back to 5-6 buds/leaves even though I’m wanting the frame to go where it’s actually lying right now? 
  • Hostafan1Hostafan1 Posts: 34,889
    You need a frame, be it trellis or wires and try to get the long stems back down to  a horizontal position. These stems will then form new shoots in following years which can be pruned to produce flowers. 
    It's not complicated but maybe a written explanation might be a bit long winded.
    I'd let the stems grow as long as they can during the season without pruning them at all, then ,when they lose their leaves, retrain the stems horizontally.
    You can take them as far as the "frame" allows, then take them up to the next row and back along horizontally, in a very flat S shape, if that makes sense?
    I'd say have the rows about 12" apart. I think I used to use 4 brick courses as my guide on a wall.
    Devon.
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    edited June 2018
    Guide the long shoots as Hosta advises to get the framework you want.   New young stems will eventually mature and become woody and need no support but whilst young they need training and loosely holding in place till they firm up.  Make sure any ties leave room for expansion as they thicken.

    Then look at this advice from the RHS for pruning and wisteria care - https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=242   You need two prunes a year in July/August and Jan/Feb to encourage flowering buds to form.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • aimiesweet.29aimiesweet.29 Posts: 5
    Yes, that makes sense to me Hostafan1. Thank you for you advice! I’m a lot clearer now on what needs to be done this year!

    Thanks Obelixx! I have a wire frame in between the trellis for the long shoots at the min, but have noticed the shoots slipping down the more they thicken up so will add a few loose ties in a couple of places today. BTW your Wisteria is beautiful!!
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Thanks, but can't claim the credit.  We inherited it when we moved here 19 months ago and have simply pruned it as and when plus given it and its pal a good feed and drink as they had been neglected for at years.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • aimiesweet.29aimiesweet.29 Posts: 5
    Obelixx what would you recommend with regards to the cane support that is still tied up from the bottom of the plant? Time to remove or should I still leave it there for now? The cane probable now only supports the bottom half of the plant but As I mentioned in original post the wisteria has wound itself around the cane in a spiral shape so I am unsure what to do with regards to it. 
  • aimiesweet.29aimiesweet.29 Posts: 5
    Obelixx said:
    Thanks, but can't claim the credit.  We inherited it when we moved here 19 months ago and have simply pruned it as and when plus given it and its pal a good feed and drink as they had been neglected for at years.

    Still beautiful none the less!
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Remove it if you can before it gets locked in there for ever.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • Lizzie27Lizzie27 Posts: 12,494
    I would add also that wisteria can get very heavy so the wire needs to be substantial. I used vine eyes on the fence posts and straining thingies to keep the wire taut. On a fence you need to keep a close watch on the long shoots during the summer as they can squirm between the fence slats which will eventually break the fence.
    O
    North East Somerset - Clay soil over limestone
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