If he didn't pay cash his mortgage lender would have had a survey done.
Mortgage lender surveys are usually just valuations to make sure the agreed price is sensible. This is typically a drive-by valuation and I think can even be performed remotely (thanks to all the information on the internet). I don't think they usually go in the house let alone explore the garden.
That seems to be the case. I assume the canes cannot be guaranteed to be dead below that point but I will ask the contractor to clarify that as I'm curious too. The scheme requires a 7 metre control zone around the knotweed in all directions from the furthest point of the above ground growth. It was sprayed last year and is showing strong growth already this year.
Wild edges, this is interesting ref the re-growth, how long has the JKW been established in this instance, what was it sprayed with, at what dilution ratio & how many times ?
We think the knotweed is around 8 years old in that location. The method statement says:
"Applications of Herbicide with either 2.4.D Amine or glyphosate as recommended by the Environment Agency Code of Practice for the eradication of Japanese Knotweed. Foliar spraying or stem injection if necessary."
"Herbicide Application Program (HAP). The herbicide approach (HAP) is by far the most efficient and cost effective option to treat and control Japanese knotweed on your land. Programs take 3/4 years to be completely effective. The HAP involves treating the “JK” on site with a selection of appropriate herbicides at regular intervals over the next three/four growing cycles. – Although you will see signs of deterioration after the first application in year one. During the treatment program new shoots will appear as the plants respond to the treatment program. This is natural and allows us to apply more herbicide to the plant root or rhizome system and gradually weaken the plants ability to regenerate. In some cases this may involve treating a larger area as the area of contamination increases"
"The application of herbicide will take place during the growing season (Apr-Nov). We will normally undertake two visits per year (sometimes three), but the timing of these visits is dependent on the knotweed growth patterns we observe."
If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
That seems to be the case. I assume the canes cannot be guaranteed to be dead below that point but I will ask the contractor to clarify that as I'm curious too. The scheme requires a 7 metre control zone around the knotweed in all directions from the furthest point of the above ground growth. It was sprayed last year and is showing strong growth already this year.
Wild edges, this is interesting ref the re-growth, how long has the JKW been established in this instance, what was it sprayed with, at what dilution ratio & how many times ?
We think the knotweed is around 8 years old in that location. The method statement says:
"Applications of Herbicide with either 2.4.D Amine or glyphosate as recommended by the Environment Agency Code of Practice for the eradication of Japanese Knotweed. Foliar spraying or stem injection if necessary."
"Herbicide Application Program (HAP). The herbicide approach (HAP) is by far the most efficient and cost effective option to treat and control Japanese knotweed on your land. Programs take 3/4 years to be completely effective. The HAP involves treating the “JK” on site with a selection of appropriate herbicides at regular intervals over the next three/four growing cycles. – Although you will see signs of deterioration after the first application in year one. During the treatment program new shoots will appear as the plants respond to the treatment program. This is natural and allows us to apply more herbicide to the plant root or rhizome system and gradually weaken the plants ability to regenerate. In some cases this may involve treating a larger area as the area of contamination increases"
"The application of herbicide will take place during the growing season (Apr-Nov). We will normally undertake two visits per year (sometimes three), but the timing of these visits is dependent on the knotweed growth patterns we observe."
Ok, do you know anything about the root & rhizome system ? I'm wondering about the profile beneath the surface, size, spread & depth dependent on age & how close to the surface working outwards from the growth center ?
It doesn't say much past the 7 metre spread. I assume though if it says that all the ground is contaminated then the roots could be anywhere. The ground on this site is hard clay and very rocky so root spread has been limited. In good topsoil I'd expect a much faster and further spread.
If you can keep your head, while those around you are losing theirs, you may not have grasped the seriousness of the situation.
Gosh. I didn't realise the regulations were so complicated...
My NDN has japanese knotweed on his steep, uncultivated bank below my garden. I asked permission to cross the fence and spray it, and do so most years in late August or early September, when the remaining stand is in flower. I've never been able to spray the whole area because the plants grow so tall and so thickly together, but I've worked in from the edges so there's now very little left. Almost nothing re-grows from the areas I've sprayed in previous years, provided the weather was dry for a day or two after spraying.
I think the timing of the spraying - when the plant has finished growing, is flowering and therefore is about to start dying back - is vital. If it's sprayed too early in the year, it's growing so fast that the weedkiller seems not to be drawn down into the roots. In late summer or early autumn, the plant is building up its food stores for the winter and the absorption of weedkiller is much better. (This works for thistles and rosebay willowherb too, incidentally.)
I use glyphosate diluted to the maximum recommended strength.
The NDN is about to put his house on the market. I wonder if he knows he needs to declare the presence of japanese knotweed? Should I tell him? What would you do??
Since 2019 I've lived in east Clare, in the west of Ireland.
Gosh. I didn't realise the regulations were so complicated...
My NDN has japanese knotweed on his steep, uncultivated bank below my garden. I asked permission to cross the fence and spray it, and do so most years in late August or early September, when the remaining stand is in flower. I've never been able to spray the whole area because the plants grow so tall and so thickly together, but I've worked in from the edges so there's now very little left. Almost nothing re-grows from the areas I've sprayed in previous years, provided the weather was dry for a day or two after spraying.
I think the timing of the spraying - when the plant has finished growing, is flowering and therefore is about to start dying back - is vital. If it's sprayed too early in the year, it's growing so fast that the weedkiller seems not to be drawn down into the roots. In late summer or early autumn, the plant is building up its food stores for the winter and the absorption of weedkiller is much better. (This works for thistles and rosebay willowherb too, incidentally.)
I use glyphosate diluted to the maximum recommended strength.
The NDN is about to put his house on the market. I wonder if he knows he needs to declare the presence of japanese knotweed? Should I tell him? What would you do??
Is the glyphosate used a licensed strength type or DIY strength & what ratio is it diluted ?
Also did the dead stems & crown tops decompose, how long did it take & are there any visible signs where it was etc ?
As for your NDN it's real difficult, if he knows it's JKW & doesn't declare it he may get found out with a buyer survey, but the question is on the seller doc's he needs to complete, in the end it's up to them even if you tell them.
Sorry Alex, only just caught up with your question. My glyphosate is Roundup from the garden centre, the concentrated sort, diluted to the maximum strength recommended on the box (for "tough weeds", and applied with a sprayer.
As it's a herbaceous plant the top growth dies down anyway in autumn, so it's not immediately obvious if the weedkiller has been effective. I just leave the dead stems in place, and they gradually disintegrate. I've never dug down to see if the roots are still there though, slumbering underground...
Since 2019 I've lived in east Clare, in the west of Ireland.
Just an update on my JKW issue, as a reminder, treated it twice last year with glyphosate herbicide, it hasn't returned this year. Last week I ventured into the area & picked up all the dead canes which were on the floor & removed the dead canes which were still standing, a piece of a crown came away with a cane, it all looked very dead. think it's a case of seeing what next year brings now.
I had it in a previous property, at that time it was not on any list.
The bees love the flowers and the plant is quite nice to control it, each year after it had flowerd but before setting seed I removed all the flower heads left them to dry and they went on the fire. In the autumn I cut the plant down to about six inches and filled each hollow stem with round up or similar weed killer.
This seemed to control it as it never spread but each spring I got beautiful new growth and so the cycle continued for about ten years until I moved
So I would suggest try controlling it and live with it.
Is the land on the other side of the fence council land if so I believe they have a legal obligation to control it ?
"A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in."
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I'm wondering about the profile beneath the surface, size, spread & depth dependent on age & how close to the surface working outwards from the growth center ?
My NDN has japanese knotweed on his steep, uncultivated bank below my garden. I asked permission to cross the fence and spray it, and do so most years in late August or early September, when the remaining stand is in flower. I've never been able to spray the whole area because the plants grow so tall and so thickly together, but I've worked in from the edges so there's now very little left. Almost nothing re-grows from the areas I've sprayed in previous years, provided the weather was dry for a day or two after spraying.
I think the timing of the spraying - when the plant has finished growing, is flowering and therefore is about to start dying back - is vital. If it's sprayed too early in the year, it's growing so fast that the weedkiller seems not to be drawn down into the roots. In late summer or early autumn, the plant is building up its food stores for the winter and the absorption of weedkiller is much better. (This works for thistles and rosebay willowherb too, incidentally.)
I use glyphosate diluted to the maximum recommended strength.
The NDN is about to put his house on the market. I wonder if he knows he needs to declare the presence of japanese knotweed? Should I tell him? What would you do??
Also did the dead stems & crown tops decompose, how long did it take & are there any visible signs where it was etc ?
As for your NDN it's real difficult, if he knows it's JKW & doesn't declare it he may get found out with a buyer survey, but the question is on the seller doc's he needs to complete, in the end it's up to them even if you tell them.
As it's a herbaceous plant the top growth dies down anyway in autumn, so it's not immediately obvious if the weedkiller has been effective. I just leave the dead stems in place, and they gradually disintegrate. I've never dug down to see if the roots are still there though, slumbering underground...
The bees love the flowers and the plant is quite nice to control it, each year after it had flowerd but before setting seed I removed all the flower heads left them to dry and they went on the fire. In the autumn I cut the plant down to about six inches and filled each hollow stem with round up or similar weed killer.
This seemed to control it as it never spread but each spring I got beautiful new growth and so the cycle continued for about ten years until I moved
So I would suggest try controlling it and live with it.
Is the land on the other side of the fence council land if so I believe they have a legal obligation to control it ?