So sorry to see your poor old Rowan - and it's making me feel a bit concerned. I planted one two years ago and several branches have not produced leaves this year. I thought they were tough little things and never considered it would be anything more than the Beast getting at it, but perhaps I should do a bit of research...
i planted a rowan tree last spring , it was doing well , it grew new branches and leaves , but in summer with the hot dorset sun the leaves shrivelled etc , now it looks dead , will it xom back to life nxt spring ??
I think you'll have to wait and see. Newly planted trees need lots of regular watering especially when it's hot to get established. 🤞 and see if new buds appear in the spring
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
HI @ronwoody73xK7bXO8N - as @Pete.8 says, regular watering is needed for any newly planted shrub or tree, especially if you're in one of those areas which had long, very dry spells. The one thing Rowans hate is being dry. Light soil doesn't suit them very well either, so if you have that, adding plenty of organic matter when the ground's nice and damp, will also help, and you can do that regularly. Compost, leaf mould, rotted manure ,bark etc.
It should get plenty of moisture over winter, and hopefully come away next year, but if your spring weather is on the dry side, don't be frightened to water it again, and through next summer.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
As you can see its a young tree ,even after keeping watered the hot sun just seemed to burn the leaves etc , the tree balk has gitva red tingecto it now is that what the call blood sap ?? Thanks for the answers .
I have a shrub (sambucus) that got its leaves fried during the heatwave, but I think it's ok. I also had blackberries that were fried and dried, but that plant is ok too.
As I mentioned before I think it's a case of wait and see what happens in Spring. You could try the fingernail test - Using a fingernail just scrape a tiny bit of the surface of the bark near the top of the tree, if you can see some green underneath, then it's still alive, if not, then try a bit farther down the trunk.
In over 50 ears of gardening, I've never heard of blood sap before....
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
I read somewhere that when a tree gets harmed in any way , its sap changes to blood sap which helps the tree to survive . I had never heard of it either .
Ah - so sap leaking after a wound - that makes sense, but your tree hasn't been wounded.
Acer trees are renowned for losing sap if substantial pruning is done at the wrong time of year. A passing schoolchild snapped a branch on one of mine about a year ago and the sap dripped for weeks onto the front wall. There was a 2" stalagmite of drying sap after about a month and all the leaves on that branch were very small this year.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Can I ask what the post is for? Is there a fence or something nearby? It's hard to tell from your photo. If it's planted very close to that, and it's concreted in, that isn't ideal for your tree. The soil looks totally saturated, and although they love water, they also need adequate drainage. What prep did you do to the soil before you planted it? Hot sun will always fry young foliage, but it isn't usually terminal, so that isn't necessarily a problem The cane won't be doing much good either, so you may as well take that out. Ideally, you'd have staked that low down with an angled stake facing into the prevailing wind, so that it was well anchored, but allowing the top to move. You can still do that. If it's not in an exposed site, they don't need staking at all
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Posts
Newly planted trees need lots of regular watering especially when it's hot to get established.
🤞 and see if new buds appear in the spring
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
The one thing Rowans hate is being dry. Light soil doesn't suit them very well either, so if you have that, adding plenty of organic matter when the ground's nice and damp, will also help, and you can do that regularly. Compost, leaf mould, rotted manure ,bark etc.
It should get plenty of moisture over winter, and hopefully come away next year, but if your spring weather is on the dry side, don't be frightened to water it again, and through next summer.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
As I mentioned before I think it's a case of wait and see what happens in Spring.
You could try the fingernail test -
Using a fingernail just scrape a tiny bit of the surface of the bark near the top of the tree, if you can see some green underneath, then it's still alive, if not, then try a bit farther down the trunk.
In over 50 ears of gardening, I've never heard of blood sap before....
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
Acer trees are renowned for losing sap if substantial pruning is done at the wrong time of year.
A passing schoolchild snapped a branch on one of mine about a year ago and the sap dripped for weeks onto the front wall. There was a 2" stalagmite of drying sap after about a month and all the leaves on that branch were very small this year.
Billericay - Essex
Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
It's hard to tell from your photo. If it's planted very close to that, and it's concreted in, that isn't ideal for your tree. The soil looks totally saturated, and although they love water, they also need adequate drainage. What prep did you do to the soil before you planted it?
Hot sun will always fry young foliage, but it isn't usually terminal, so that isn't necessarily a problem
The cane won't be doing much good either, so you may as well take that out. Ideally, you'd have staked that low down with an angled stake facing into the prevailing wind, so that it was well anchored, but allowing the top to move. You can still do that.
If it's not in an exposed site, they don't need staking at all
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...