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Lawn Weeds
bobbobby
Posts: 6
Hello Forum,
I have a low growing weed that's spreading through my lawns which is resisting my best efforts to control it. I have taken some pictures of it which you can see here:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqKJZhgqcQG61Slaogwi7q_GQMjL
I think it's 'SELFHEAL' and I just can't kill it. I've tried verdone and a number of other 'weed and feed' products from B&Q and Wilkos but they've had ZERO effect.
Any suggestions? I've read that a broad leaf selective weed killer should work but I can't find a specific product mentioned anywhere and I'm tired of guessing and it not working.
Thanks,
BB
0
Posts
http://www.lawnweeds.co.uk/selfheal.html
It's very pretty... I'd leave it be, but I recognise that not everyone likes a colourful lawn.
I like that one in my 'lawn' it goes well with the clover and the bees love it
In the sticks near Peterborough
I think of my 'lawn' as a low growing wildflower meadow. The only things I hoik out are those pretty orange jobs with the hairy leaves.
I let wild flowers grow on the path too.
Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. I can't leave it as it's taking the entire lawn over - soon there'll be only Selfheal. I'd hoped someone could give specific advice on a weed killer that they know to work. The website URL above (thanks Dave) suggests 'Verdone' as #1 on it's list but I've tried that (repeatedly) and it does nothing. As these products aren't cheap I'd like to buy one that actually works. Anyone have any real experience?
To remove it you need to rake your lawn quite vigourously and cut. Do this everytime before you cut your lawn. This loosens the creeping plants and brings them up to be cut. Also, the gaps allows air in so the soil dries quicker. When it's damp, spike the soil and work lawn sand into the areas. Self Heal attacks lawns that are compacted and shady. The lawn needs the surface drying quickly and soil free draining. The idea is to get grass growing well and minimise gaps allowing weeds to creep in.
Last edited: 06 August 2017 22:38:13
Borderline's right. You need to address the conditions in your lawn that are encouraging prunella if you want grass instead. The soil needs to be free draining, and grass needs light in order to thrive. If you can't give it those, grass will always be a bit of a struggle to keep nice.
If you don't want to dig out the prunella, I'd try something like Resolva to get rid of it. I rarely use weedkiller anywhere, but for difficult, peristent weeds in awkward places, I've found it's the only one that works, and it works quickly. You'll then need to sort out the soil and drainage, before sowing seed or laying turf. Leave it for a good few weeks though as weedkiller will affect germination of seed. Prepping the ground properly is the key to getting a good lawn.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Borderline and Fairygirl. Thanks very much for the good advice. The ground is indeed compacted and shady (north facing) so I'll give your advice a shot.
OH who is lawn obsessed
, says he would use Resolva,
As suggested, one of the best methods of weed prevention is having a good healthy lawn to out-compete the weeds. "Weeds" are typically just local plants that are well adapted to your area so they grow quickly whenever an opportunity presents itself.
Test your soil. Around here it costs $15-$25 or so to have that done by the local extension lab. Based on the results, adjust the pH of your soil to get it to where it is ideal for grass. That alone can fix issues with weeds. Make other adjustments as recommended.
Start by physically removing the weeds by pulling up at the roots. You can also use a product like RoundUp that will kill most plants. RoundUp will also kill all of the grass it touches so you don't want to use it until you are around the time you will replant.
Once you have removed the weeds, thatch rack and aerate if you have not done that recently. Top dress the areas you are going to reseed with an inch of 3-3-3 mix of leaf compost, manure, and loam. Rake it down around the existing grass with the back of a garden rake or a leaf rake. Overseed the topdressing, add a little starter fertilizer, and mulch over the seed. I use peatmoss to mulch but there are other options. Make sure you use a grass seed that is appropriate for your zone and the amount of sunlight. I tend to use Jonathan Green grass seed at this point. Water your seed three times a day to keep it moist until the seed sprouts and then twice a day for a month. It should look like a lawn again in a month.
The point is to physically remove the weeds and then get good grass going there to keep them out. You will have to spot treat for weeds for quite a while. I use Ortho Weed-Be-Gone to spray individual weed plants as they re-appear. I walk the lawn every few weeks an look for anything with a different leaf shape than the grass. If I can, I pull the weed and throw it out. I spray weeds I can't pull. It is important to remove weeds from the area of your lawn, including the edges and other places on your property where they can get going and spread.
I essentially have no weeds in my lawn now and I haven't used a systemic weed killer in many years. I haven't even had to spot spray anything in two years. Keep your lawn healthy and the grass will do most of the work.
LMHmedchem