Trim the hedge to a blunt ‘A’ shape (what is called ‘trimming to a batter’). That way the top won’t shade the bottom and the sunlight will stimulate growth at the bottom.
No sorry, I’ve confused you haven’t I … I was in a bit of a rush 🙄 …. I was referring to this section “… Formal hedges should be slightly tapered on both sides so that the base is wider than the top and light can reach the bottom of the hedge. This is known as cutting the hedge to a batter.”
What you’ve done is fine for Laurel …it’ll grow lots of side shoots that’ll grow upwards. You’ll have a nice thick hedge. 😊
But it wouldn’t have worked for most conifers.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Trim the hedge to a blunt ‘A’ shape (what is called ‘trimming to a batter’). That way the top won’t shade the bottom and the sunlight will stimulate growth at the bottom.
@Ditsy. You haven’t done wrong, I wouldn’t take any notice of that article, The best way to treat laurels is to cut them down a bit on planting, all shoots, then keep picking out the middle shoots, No need to only prune in the summer, cut any straggly branches in Spring, Summer and autumn if they’re growing out of shape. Never put a stick in for the lead shoot, they don’t like being tied up.
Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor.
First of all I have no idea about gardening so bear with me.
Hoping to get some help here as the guy I bought my laurels off hasn't been a great help to me.
I bought them last November (I think they were rootball but cant remember)
As you will see in the pictures some of them have no leaves at all. Some are yellow and some are dropping leaves.
I have fed them with chicken manure pellets as advised. I have watered them, foliar fed them with miracle gro etc
Do they need pruning as the Op was advised or should I just leave them for a fj growing season to see they will come to life? Also if I am to start cutting them back I would have no clue where to start so any advice here would be great too.
This thread is excellent by the way. Lots of good info and great to see progress pics posted over time.
@csutton193 Hi Chris, not an expert by any means, but I have got some suggestions gleaned from help on here and my own experiences. Firstly, pruning or cutting back common laurel is always a good idea. All those older, woody branches aren't what make your hedge, the bulk comes from fresh new green growth, and cutting back encourages your plants to sprout more and more. Personally, as very few of your plants are putting out new growth from the bottom I'd cut everything down by half, each branch, then each twig even the ones with leaves on. Get them down to your wall height. Secondly, they are pretty close together, so they are competing with each other for water, nutrients and soil space. Soil space is presumably already limited because of your wall footings, so clear more grass from in-front of them - at least a foot, preferably more, they need room. Thirdly, what's your weather been like? Regular decent rain, or dry and warm/hot? Watering is tricky, if your soil holds water like mine (basically clay) then making them too soggy is easily done. But if it drains well you'll be surprised how much water they can drink. Dig a little hole at several places along your boundary, is the soil wet 3-4 inches down. You may find different conditions at different points. Most importantly, if you do water, do it thoroughly. I give mine a full watering-can each with the rose on to give water chance to soak down into the soil, but they've been in just over 12mths and I've only had to do it 3 times so far this year. Unless it's bone dry, a can a week should be more than enough. Don't worry about gaps, or one or two dying off. As I said, yours are close together and any gaps will soon be filled in once you get the growth started.
Posts
😊
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
For example: Lawson cypress, Leyland cypress, yew, bay, cherry laurel, cotoneaster and pyracantha
Formative pruning
- On planting, leave the leading shoot unpruned, lightly cutting back any straggly side shoots
- In summer, trim sideshoots and tie in the leader to a supporting cane as it grows
- Use secateurs for broad-leaved evergreens (e.g. laurel and bay)
I have just read this in the link. I have already cut the leaders off my laurels at only 2' high. is this wrong?What you’ve done is fine for Laurel …it’ll grow lots of side shoots that’ll grow upwards. You’ll have a nice thick hedge. 😊
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Never put a stick in for the lead shoot, they don’t like being tied up.
First of all I have no idea about gardening so bear with me.
Hoping to get some help here as the guy I bought my laurels off hasn't been a great help to me.
I bought them last November (I think they were rootball but cant remember)
As you will see in the pictures some of them have no leaves at all. Some are yellow and some are dropping leaves.
I have fed them with chicken manure pellets as advised. I have watered them, foliar fed them with miracle gro etc
Do they need pruning as the Op was advised or should I just leave them for a fj growing season to see they will come to life? Also if I am to start cutting them back I would have no clue where to start so any advice here would be great too.
This thread is excellent by the way. Lots of good info and great to see progress pics posted over time.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
Hi Chris, not an expert by any means, but I have got some suggestions gleaned from help on here and my own experiences.
Firstly, pruning or cutting back common laurel is always a good idea. All those older, woody branches aren't what make your hedge, the bulk comes from fresh new green growth, and cutting back encourages your plants to sprout more and more.
Personally, as very few of your plants are putting out new growth from the bottom I'd cut everything down by half, each branch, then each twig even the ones with leaves on. Get them down to your wall height.
Secondly, they are pretty close together, so they are competing with each other for water, nutrients and soil space. Soil space is presumably already limited because of your wall footings, so clear more grass from in-front of them - at least a foot, preferably more, they need room.
Thirdly, what's your weather been like? Regular decent rain, or dry and warm/hot? Watering is tricky, if your soil holds water like mine (basically clay) then making them too soggy is easily done. But if it drains well you'll be surprised how much water they can drink. Dig a little hole at several places along your boundary, is the soil wet 3-4 inches down. You may find different conditions at different points. Most importantly, if you do water, do it thoroughly. I give mine a full watering-can each with the rose on to give water chance to soak down into the soil, but they've been in just over 12mths and I've only had to do it 3 times so far this year. Unless it's bone dry, a can a week should be more than enough.
Don't worry about gaps, or one or two dying off. As I said, yours are close together and any gaps will soon be filled in once you get the growth started.